How Do I Look?
Embracing my inner Carrie Bradshaw one film wardrobe at a time (August 2024 Programming)
Hello and welcome back my lovely cinephiles.
Another week, another programming series to archive. It’s my last one before we start fresh in the new year. I’m happy to be able to dive into some exciting stuff!
I believe the year was 2023 when I visited L.A. for the second time. I was finishing up my programming fellowship with the Outfest Fusion Film Festival (RIP) and had some spare time to kill in-between events. Lucky for me, I was put up on Sunset Boulevard so I took advantage of all the film history oozing about around me. I decided to go for a hot girl walk and ended up at the Paramount lot to do a studio tour. I had no idea that was something you could even do! After signing in and taking pictures with an Oscar statue (foreshadowing), my group was whisked away on a shuttle and taken deep into the different lots and sound stages.
If you know me, then you know there’s nothing I love more than film history and trivia. I was amazed by just how much had been filmed on the lot. Any even bigger amazement? Running into a college friend who was on her lunch break. How small the world is.
Anyways! During the tour, we were told about Edith Head, one of the biggest costume designers to ever grace the studio. In her 44 year run at Paramount, Head won a staggering 8 Academy Awards for best costume. I always wondered about her relationship with her clients and how much they entrusted her. Like Audrey Hepburn and her relationship with Givenchy. Or Law Roach and Zendaya. Even Edna Mode and the Incredibles (Edith = Edna).
To this end, I decided to curate a program entirely around costumes and wardrobes. If anything, I am but a woman who enjoys gazing upon pretty things. As I grow older and re-examine my own relationship with my clothes, it’s been fun digging deep into the history of fashion and how it intersects in film.
As a general reminder, I select films based on this list of criteria:
Made by a Woman
Classical Era (not exclusive to Hollywood)
BIPOC made or centered
Cult Classic
International
Without further ado, I present to you: “How Do I Look?”
Marie Antionette (2006) Dir. Sofia Coppola
I fucking love Kirsten Dunst, it must be said. As someone who has been in the game for a hot minute, she has remained steadfast and about her business. Not to mention her recent marriage to modest acting powerhouse, Jesse Plemons. That’s a dinner party I wouldn’t mind being invited to.
I also wouldn’t mind being invited to the biggest party of them all: Versailles. Sofia Coppola really did her thing with this one. The story lingers and touches some of the more vulnerable parts of Marie’s life and dare I say, humanizes her more than any other media portrayal I’ve seen thus far. Everything looks like a painting and the film tingles all five senses with its decadent shots of pastries, architecture and of course, the gowns. Cue Aretha Franklin’s “great gowns, beautiful gowns.”
Designed by Oscar award winning designer, Milena Canonero, it has to go down in history as some of the best costumes ever created in film. Everything about it is just so lush and captivating that there are times when I’m watching the film that I hit pause and imagine how it would feel to touch the garments. My favorite has to be the blue ensemble pictured in the still above. The bow choker, the hat, the minor frills! Fangirl, much?
Outside of the costumes, the film is just as great and it’s my top Sofia Coppola film to date. While I did like the wardrobe in her most recent work, Priscilla, I must say anything Elvis related just doesn’t quite do it for me.
I’m still attempting to get my hands on Sofia’s archive, if y’all know someone that knows someone.
Stream Marie Antoinette on Apple TV.
What a Way to Go! (1964) Dir. J. Lee Thompson
If there’s one thing I love more than Shirley MacLaine, it’s Shirley MacLaine in “What a Way to Go!”
I always found Shirley to be particularly charming in all of her roles, styled so chic like with her short haircuts and wispy lashes. I think I was on a classical film kick when I came across this film and I smiled like an idiot the entire watch. It’s giving The Seven Husbands of Evelyn Hugo but better. More campy. I actually haven’t read the book but I trust my opinions!
I love that each marriage period is defined by a particular aesthetic and hunk, amirite? Paul Newman, Robert Mitchum, Gene Kelly, oh my!
Our good homegirl Edith Head was the costume designer and was only given a budget of $500k to pull everything off! I think this is my favorite work of hers. Everything is super stylized, unique and timeless. I could see any of these dresses on the red carpet today and not think anything of it. I wish I had more of an educated response to these films outside of “oh, pretty dress. Me like!” but unfortunately I’ve got to work with what I’ve got. My favorite piece has to be the backless “dress” with the necklace down the back. It just oozes sex appeal in the most simplistic way. I love it. I want it. I need it.
I’m kicking myself now though, as I just realized I missed a chance to see Edith’s work on display at the Oklahoma City Museum of art. The exhibit wrapped on September 29th of last year and as of now, will not tour anymore. Have I ever been to Oklahoma? No. Would I go specifically for an art exhibit? You bet you ass I would. Hopefully in the future!
Stream What a Way to Go! on Youtube.
B.A.P.S (1997) Dir. Robert Townsend
I have the faintest memory of watching this film with my mother when I was younger. I didn’t remember the plot super well but I do remember Halle Berry doing this outrageous dance number that I replicated whenever the autism struck and I thought no one was around to see. Revisiting it again proved to be such a fun watch. It’s quintessentially 90s through and through. Ruth E. Carter takes costume designer helm on this one and the intricate detail she puts into the wardrobe is beyond anything my brain can comprehend. It reminds me of why I admire Black women and the way we dress so much, it’s so innovative and prototypical.
It came as no surprise when Ruth would later go on to win an Academy Award for her work on Black Panther (2018). The first Black woman to ever do so. She also won another award for her work on Black Panther 2 (2022). There’s a conversation to be had about how embarrassing it is that no other Black women have won in this category but then you look at the Academy Awards as whole and…yeah.
Another museum exhibit I let slip by without notice, this time at the North Carolina Museum of Art. Here’s hoping that I’ll be lucky enough to see them on display again soon.
Stream B.A.P.S. on Tubi.
Clueless (1995) Dir. Amy Heckerling
Who would I be if I didn’t include Clueless on this list? I mean, when you think of fashion in film, Clueless ranks among the top favorable selections. Given that I see at least one iteration of the classic Cher outfit as a halloween costume every year, I’d say even if the film wasn’t great, the fashion speaks for itself. As with B.A.P.S, everything about this is SO nineties. The more I think about this film and the decade, the more I realize that people aren’t really wearing hats anymore. Sure, you get the occasional baseball cap or sun hat when at the beach but where are the statement pieces? Everything feels like it’s been toned down.
Shout out to Mona May, who pulled all the costumes together by the skin of her teeth. With only a whopping budget of $200k, Mona sought out inspiration from the high fashion runways all over Europe to the high school classrooms in the Valley. It was also startling to learn that Alicia Silverstone was a raging hippie during the filming of the movie and how uncomfortable she was wearing designer labels. Just goes to show you that maybe you can slap lipstick on a pig and get away with it. If I’m being totally honest, Cher and Dionne were not the best dressed in this film. It was Amber!!!!!
I felt like she was the boldest of them all, always covered in bright colors and while she was able to dress for the times, she could also pull off looks from previous decades without breaking a sweat. BRB, ordering this costume for halloween!
Stream Clueless on Prime Video.
Who Are You, Polly Maggoo? (1966) Dir. William Klein
I’m still not sure what I experienced after watching this film. I was not familiar with Klein’s previous work but I finished a documentary about super model Donyale Luna and it was mentioned that she took some film gigs here and there. She makes a brief appearance here and while disappointed I wasn’t going to see her more, I became enraptured with the main character, Polly.
Portrayed by an actual model, the film follows Polly as she becomes a sensation in France, every moment of her life now being captured by a film crew desperately trying to uncover the “real” her. The film through me for a few loops with its experimental approach but I found it slightly endearing and humorous. The wardrobe was absolutely riveting and the only downside was the entire film was shot in black and white so there’s no telling how vibrant the colors actually are. I was also shocked to find out that Klein’s wife at the time, Janine Klein, was responsible! Love an artist duo. The Polly shirt as seen in the image above is probably the most basic piece of them all but it’s the one I want the most. Hobby Lobby, beware.
Stream Who Are You, Polly Maggoo on the Criterion Channel.
And that concludes my costume obsessed programming series. I feel like this year will be the year I finally stop talking about learning how to make my own clothes and I just do it. I hope these films give you some inspiration and you experiment with your own wardrobe!
Until next time, see you at the movies.
all of these picks (minus the last only because i haven't seen it) are STELLAR! ✨ great post!